The clothing sampling process: proto, fit, pre-production and approval
The sample stages every new clothing brand goes through: prototype, fit sample, pre-production sample and top of production. What to check and how to give feedback.
Updated 1 October 2026 · By Hem Apparel
Samples are how you turn a tech pack into a real garment before committing to bulk. Names and numbers of rounds differ between factories, but most follow the same stages.
The stages
| Stage | Purpose | What to check |
|---|---|---|
| Prototype (proto) | First look at shape and construction | Silhouette, proportions, overall idea. Fabric may be a substitute. |
| Fit sample | Confirm size and fit in the real fabric | Measurements against the spec, fit on a person or form |
| Pre-production sample (PP) | Final approval before bulk | Correct fabric, colour, trims, labels, artwork and packing |
| Top of production (TOP) | First pieces off the real line | Match to the approved PP, consistent quality |
How to review a sample
- Measure it flat against your spec sheet, point by point, and note the difference.
- Try it on a person or fit model, and take photos from front, back and side.
- Check material, colour, labels, stitching and artwork against the tech pack.
- Wash it according to the care label and measure again for shrinkage.
- Compare it to the written brief, not only to the picture in your head.
How to give feedback
- Be specific: 'chest is 3 cm under spec' is better than 'too tight'.
- Mark photos with arrows and measurements.
- Give one consolidated list for each round, numbered, with the tech pack page reference.
- Separate must-fix items from preferences.
- Update the tech pack for every agreed change, so the written file always matches the sample.
Time and cost
Sampling often takes a few weeks per round, plus shipping. Most factories charge for samples, sometimes credited back against a bulk order. Plan for at least two rounds and add buffer to your launch date.
Mistakes to avoid
- Approving a sample made from a different fabric than the bulk fabric.
- Changing the design between rounds without updating the tech pack.
- Skipping the pre-production sample to save time.
- Sending feedback in many small messages instead of one list.