Pantone colors for fabric: TCX codes and how to specify colour to a factory

How to use Pantone TCX codes in a tech pack, why a screen colour is never enough, and how lab dips work so your fabric matches the colour you chose.

Updated 1 October 2026 · By Hem Apparel

Colour is one of the easiest things to get wrong between a designer and a factory. 'Off-white' means something different to everyone, and screens show the same hex code differently. A Pantone code gives both sides a shared reference.

Which Pantone system to use

• Pantone TCX: dyed cotton references used for textiles and apparel. Codes look like 19-4052 TCX.
• Pantone TPG: paper-based Fashion, Home + Interiors references for hard surfaces; TPG replaced the older TPX formulation. Specify the reference format rather than assuming paper and fabric will look identical.
• Pantone solid coated (C): used for print and packaging, and sometimes for screen print inks.

How to specify colour in a tech pack

1. Give every colourway a name and a code, for example 'Navy · 19-4052 TCX'.
2. Specify each material: body fabric, rib, thread, labels and print inks can all be different colours.
3. State the reference type, such as TCX, so the factory looks up the right book.
4. If you do not own a Pantone book, ask the factory to match a physical swatch and send it back for approval.

What is a lab dip?

A lab dip is a small piece of fabric dyed to match your target colour before bulk dyeing. The mill sends several attempts, you approve one, and that approved dip becomes the colour standard for production. Allow extra time and budget for it, and keep the approved piece.

Why screens and prints disagree

• Screens emit light, fabric reflects it, so the same colour reads differently.
• Fibre matters: the same dye looks different on cotton, polyester and blends.
• Lighting changes the result. Check colours under daylight or a standard light box.
• Printers and phones are not calibrated to Pantone.

Common colour mistakes

• Describing a colour only in words, or only with a hex code.
• Forgetting thread, rib and label colours.
• Approving a colour from a photo.
• Changing the colour after the lab dip is approved.