Screen print vs DTF vs embroidery: which to choose and how to specify it
Compare screen printing, DTF, DTG and embroidery for clothing: cost at different quantities, durability, look and feel, plus how to write each into your tech pack.
Updated 1 October 2026 · By Hem Apparel
How your artwork is applied changes the price, the feel, the lead time and how many you need to order. Choosing the method early lets you write it correctly in your tech pack and get an accurate quote.
The main methods compared
| Method | Best for | Strengths | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Screen print | Larger runs, few colours | Low cost per piece at volume, durable, vivid colour | Setup per colour and screen, so small runs cost more |
| DTF (direct to film) | Small runs, many colours, detailed art | No colour limit, no minimum, works on many fabrics | Slightly plastic feel, less breathable on large areas |
| DTG (direct to garment) | Very small runs, photographic art | Soft feel on cotton, no setup | Best on cotton, slow and costly at volume |
| Embroidery | Logos, caps, premium look | Textured, long lasting | Stitch count drives price, not suited to fine detail |
| Heat transfer / vinyl | Names, numbers, simple shapes | Clean edges, quick | Can crack or peel, depends on vinyl quality |
How quantity changes the choice
Screen printing has a setup cost for each colour, so it becomes the cheapest option as quantity grows. DTF and DTG have little setup, so they suit small first runs and tests. For embroidery, price depends on stitch count more than quantity, though digitising the logo is a one-off fee.
What to write in the tech pack
- Method: screen print (plastisol or water-based), DTF, DTG or embroidery.
- Size: width × height of the artwork in cm.
- Position: distance from a fixed point, such as 8 cm below the collar, centred on the front.
- Colours: Pantone code for each ink or thread colour.
- Artwork file: vector file (AI, EPS, PDF or SVG) for print and embroidery digitising.
- Placement per size: whether the artwork stays the same size or scales across sizes.
- Finish: puff, flock, glitter, matt or gloss.
Fabric and print compatibility
Cotton suits almost every method. Polyester and blends can cause dye migration with some inks. Dark garments need an underbase for light prints. Ask your factory which method they run in-house, because outsourced printing adds time and cost.
Quality checks
- Approve a printed or embroidered sample before bulk.
- Wash test the print according to the care label.
- Check position on every size, not just the sample size.