Knit fabric types for clothing: jersey, rib, interlock, French terry and fleece
A guide to common knit fabrics for T-shirts, hoodies and sweatpants: how they are constructed, how they feel, typical uses and how to name them in a tech pack.
Updated 1 October 2026 · By Hem Apparel
Knit fabrics are made from interlocking loops, which is why they stretch and recover. Most T-shirts, hoodies and joggers use one of the knits below. Naming the exact construction in your tech pack matters as much as the fibre.
The common knits
| Fabric | Construction and feel | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| Single jersey | One layer of knit, smooth face, curls at the edge, light and stretchy | T-shirts, tank tops, dresses |
| Rib | Vertical ridges, very stretchy with good recovery | Neckbands, cuffs, hems, fitted tops |
| Interlock | Two layers knit together, smooth on both sides, thicker, does not curl | Premium T-shirts, polos, leggings |
| Piqué | Textured waffle surface | Polo shirts |
| French terry | Smooth outside, soft loops inside | Sweatshirts, hoodies, joggers for mild weather |
| Fleece (brushed) | Inside loops brushed into a soft pile, warmer | Hoodies, sweatpants, winter wear |
Fibres and blends
- Cotton: soft and breathable. Combed or ring-spun yarn is smoother and stronger than carded.
- Cotton–polyester: more shrink-resistant and quick drying.
- Elastane (spandex), often 2–5%: adds stretch and shape retention.
- Viscose, modal and similar: drape and softness, but can be less stable.
- Recycled or organic fibres: ask for the relevant certificates if you plan to make claims.
How to specify a knit in a tech pack
Write the construction, fibre content, weight and any finish together: '100% combed cotton, single jersey, 180 GSM, enzyme washed, pre-shrunk'. If you need stretch, state the elastane percentage. Add a shrinkage tolerance, since knits can shrink 3–5% or more in length and width on first wash.
Choosing for a product
- Decide how the garment should look: crisp or drapey, boxy or fitted.
- Match the weight to the season using the GSM guide.
- Ask the factory for swatches of two or three options.
- Wash a swatch and check shrinkage, twisting and pilling.
- Write the final spec into the tech pack to match the sample.